Classic/ Antique Cars & Car Insurance

In this section, you will find out about insuring antique, classic cars. How to get a quote using an online car insurance calculator. Find useful information about liability, collecter issues, affordability & more.

FAQ about classic Cars

Written by R. Jones (from 'Old Classic Cars')

1. Are classic cars expensive to buy?

They needn't be no, it all comes down to what you want and can afford. Rusty old classics can be yours for the price of a cup of coffee. But for the sake of argument lets just take roadworthy motors. Much also will depend on the type of car you want. Interested in saloon cars? Then for example a presentable and MOT'd Ford Anglia (105E) could be yours for anywhere between £1,000 - £2,000, or if you fancy something a little older then maybe you'd want something like a 1950s Austin Devon, usually to be found in good condition for anywhere between £1,500 - £2,500 for one that has seen some useful restoration work in its time.

Sport scars are generally more expensive than comparable engine saloons, a good example is that of Triumphs. A Herald 13/60 saloon in tidy condition could be yours for £700 or so, whereas it's sport scar equivalent, the Spitfire (sharing much of its core running gear) could be anywhere from £1,750 upwards for a car in similar condition. Bearing in mind that they often get wet inside, which will lead to corrosion later in life, it's often wise to buy the best example of an open topped car that you can. Much of this applies to roadster versions of saloons, the Triumphs once again proving the point - a drop top Herald or Vitesse will often be around 50% more expensive than its saloon brothers. Luxury cars are a lore unto themselves. Good ones command decent money, say £4,000+ for a really nice old Humber, but a basket case could be purchased for a few pennies as demand for rebuilt projects of this type of car is not high, largely due to the enormous cost of renovating tired wood and leather which rarely can be recouped with the value of the finished article. 

2. Are all old (UK) classic cars tax-exempt?

No. Any car built (as opposed to registered) prior to Jan 1 1973 qualifies to be a Historic car in the eyes of DVLA, and as such qualifies for zero rated road tax. Originally the cut-off was meant to be a rolling 25 years, but the current Labour government quashed this, setting the cut-off for Historic status as 01/01/73. You do still need to display a tax disc however, really just to prove that when you applied for the disc you had current insurance and MOT, but you will not have to hand over a single penny. This legislation can have some bearing on values of identical cars that were built either side of the '73 cut-off - buy a January 1973 build Triumph TR6 and you'll have to pay up even though the car comes out on sunny days only, whereas your neighbour with his/her '72 TR6 is in the fortunate position of paying £nothing, which, if totted up over a few years, can add up to a significant sum

3. I have a rotten Singer Gazelle propping up my barn wall. Is its registration number valuable?

It may well be, if it was fitted to an MOT'd car. If the car isn't MOTd, then you will not be able to put the registration number up for sale. Something to remember is that if you sell on the original number from a classic car or truck, the value of the vehicle (now on a non-transferable number) will be markedly less, as most enthusiasts want their classic as original as possible, including its correct registration mark. The drop in the car's value may be less than you get for the sale of the number, hence you may be ahead financially, but this really is an act of heresy - would you sell your parents name (aka identity) if you thought you'd make some money on it?

4. Do colours affect the desirability of a car?

It all comes down to personal taste. Take 2 Jaguar E Types, both V12 fixed heads. One is bright red, gleaming like a newly polished pin. The other is also in an original Jaguar colour, this time sable. Sable is a dour shade of brown that was available during the early 1970s on all manner of BL group vehicles, equally to be seen on any number of Triumph Dolomites, Spitfires, and Allegros, such as in period episodes of The Professionals (a UK police drama for non-UK readers or those of tender years). Now the years have done nothing to increase the appeal of the brown hue, after all, how many new cars nowadays are brown? whereas red is still popular with everyone from granny in her Austin Metro (automatic most likely) to the dashing young blades in their Z3 Beemers. The red Jag, OK they are 2+2s but never mind, should sell quite easily (assuming that people looking for such a beast are content with the fuel bills that come with the package) whereas the brown one will probably have to be sold at a discount to the red example, just to get it shifted. And, likely as not, the money that the brown car's new buyer saved in the deal will probably go towards a re-spray in red! Much the same thing happened to me earlier this year.

I wanted a Series 1 XJ, preferably in dark blue. The dark blue car that I found was a bit of a nail, but I ended up with a light blue example in the end. During this time I was offered a very tidy Daimler S1 XJ6L, ok it was a long wheelbase which I didn't really want but otherwise sounded very promising. That was until I found out what colour it was - pink! Now, that is a rare colour I'm told for such a motor car but I can see why. No matter how hard I tried, I just couldn't bring myself to drive around in a pink Jag, looking like Parker chauffeuring Lady Penelope back and forth to Tracey Island.

5. Will my classic run on unleaded petrol?

More recent classics, such as those with alloy heads, usually have hardened valve seats etc and as such can run on this unleaded stuff ok (though it's always wise to check with the relevant club/authority on the matter). Older engines, such as the BMW A series engine used in hundreds of thousands of Morris Minors, A35s, Sprites and so on, will not take unleaded fuel for any length of time without damage being caused to the valves and or seats (lead essentially lubricated these parts, offering protection). The only viable option is to shell out £150 or so for a reconditioned cylinder head. Engines do retain a lead 'memory' for a while, so if you only do 20 miles every year to the MOT station and back, then you should be ok.

When leaded fuel was phased out in the UK a few years back, all manner of 'pellets in the tank' and inline fuel line contraptions were launched, claiming to offer the protection of lead while you run on the new unleaded stuff. Many tests were performed, some of which threw up doubts as to the effectiveness (or not) of such inventions, so I for one have never bothered with them. You can get liquid fuel additives which you pour a measure of into the petrol tank before filling up with fuel, which seem to work, but like I say seek advice from other owners before committing to any one solution. One side effect of running on unleaded is that the engine seems to run hotter, so you might encounter problems with fuel vaporising that you didn't before. 

6. I've read of people running classics as their company cars - why do they bother?

This isn't something I've done, but my understanding is that you pay company car tax based on the cars price, when new. So Vectra man or Mondeo man will pay company car tax based on the £20 grand or so that his sensational repmobile cost (his company) to buy. However, if you buy a classic (up to £25k in value if I recall correctly) you are still only taxed on its as-new price, so the theory is that you can run a tasty Mk2 Jag or '59 Cadillac based on its price back when sideburns were long and skirts were short (not on the same person I hasten to add - usually!). And then there's the other benefit of zero rate road tax to remember, although before zooming off to find the nearest '59 Cad you can find, its worth remembering that other running costs (e.g. fuel) may be a lot higher for a classic ride, and reliability almost certainly won't be up to more modern car standards. But, if you don't rely on your car too heavily, running a vintage motor as a company car could make a lot of sense, especially when you consider the depreciation that your modern piece of junk will incur.

 7. Is it worth me joining an owners club?

If you are new to old cars, or a particular make/model of old car, then usually the answer is yes. Despite many peoples preconceptions of what the average car club member looks like, it is not de rigeur to sport excessive facial hair, a bobble or tartan hat with matching anorak, corduroy trousers and oil-caked fingernails (it helps of course!). Often once you have identified the car you fancy, its worth joining the correct owners club to have access to cars for sale by club members, as they run the chance of being well maintained examples. There is a social side to most clubs and registers also, and it is entirely optional as to whether you take part or adopt a less involved role, receiving the club magazines and benefiting from cheaper insurance policies that many clubs provide. Should you wish to join in the fun, local area groups often organise treasure hunts, classic car 'fun runs', visits to sites of interest (e.g. breweries), barbecues, and so on. The cost involved can be nothing, for a simple register of owners, right through to £35 upwards for the big international clubs, although even then the subscription fee can often be recouped via the cheaper insurance options that they offer

8. I have inherited an old car - where can I find out its value?

If the make and model of car is popular in the world of classic motoring, any old car magazine will have several pages of adverts containing a number of cars similar to your own. If that fails, then jump onto the internet and have a trawl around for websites dedicated to that particular motorcar, most have 'Contact Us' sections and usually the recipient of your enquiry will be only too keen to help out. Alternatively, try to attend a classic car meeting if there is one in your area - chances are if you own a fairly common classic (as in numerous) there will be other owners with whom you could discuss your inheritance.

Failing that, try listing it at auction, either in the traditional way via a specialist car auction, or on the internet with a company such as Ebay, although unless you set a minimum £ that you'd accept for the car (the Reserve), it may go for less than you imagine. For a rarer car, you may need to seek specialist advice from an auction house or reputable dealer in that type of car, but here too there is no better way to gauge a classics true value than compare your car with those on the market, so get a feel for what the market will stand. If you want any further advice, please feel free to email me via the email link on the homepage of old classic car.

9. What are the main differences between driving an old car and a new one?

Well, just about every aspect of motoring has been developed beyond all recognition over the last couple of decades. Drive a reasonable modern car, and you'll find electric windows, central locking, sunroof, comfy seats and a decent sound system. Jump out of your hermetically sealed modern into a Standard 8 say, and prepare for a shock (admittedly to someone like me it'd be a welcome shock, but never mind). Gone are electric windows, and back then wind up windows were still far from universal, so sit back and enjoy the experience of sliding windows, usually in runners that are gunged up and barely allow more than a whistle of air into the cabin (same goes for early Minis). Central locking in the early 1950s was still the stuff of 'take a glimpse into the future' type programmes, along with hydro foils and nuclear propulsion. Sunroof? Pah no chance, although less lowly models, such as the wobbly Vanguard, did offer such luxuries, often listed alongside comfy unsupportive leather bench seats in the advertising blurb of the day, quite the thing when compared to the utilitarian example found in Standard's more diminutive offering.

Braking is another area where you'll notice a significant difference, requiring a great deal more forward planning than is often the case in an ABS-equipped modern steed, steering too being another area where the older car may well feel a little less communicative

10. What tools should I buy for maintaining my first classic car?

Pick up any catalogue from a tool supplier and the range of tools available is vast. However 95% of these you'll probably never need, or may need once during your ownership of the car (so hiring or borrowing from a mate may be the best bet there!). Stuff I wouldn't leave home without must include the following: A range of screwdrivers, both flat and cross headed in a variety of sizes (but a reasonable quality set too, the cheapo ones just snap when you lean on them), a set of spanners suitable for your particular car (i.e. don't go buying a metric set if you have gone and bought a 1950s Sunbeam). A tin of oil and bottle of water/antifreeze is always a good thing to have kicking around in the far reaches of your boot in case of emergency, as is a towrope and quality set of jump leads (not the £1.99 set from Tesco's either). Other less obvious things to include may be insulation tape, rubber straps and some string to tie things back on with!

11. I've got a rusty Hillman Imp, if I restore it will I be able to make a profit?

Chances are no, especially if you build in a cost for the time you spent doing the work. Even without this extra cost, by the time you take full consideration of all the consumables that you will use (welding wire, gas, paint, tool hire etc) chances are you'll not recoup your full investment, not forgetting of course the sum you originally paid for the car. Restoration on smaller less valuable motors therefore only really makes sense when you're doing it for yourself, for the experience of doing the rebuild. To embark on such a project with this type of car solely for financial gain will probably end in tears, unless it has some particular historical significance. Rarer more 'exclusive' cars are more likely to command a better return when it comes to sale time, although usually the effort and cost expended on them will be equally higher and the chance for profit similarly risky.

12. I've heard that spare parts for old cars are very expensive, is this true?

Yes and no. A lot depends on the type, make & model of car, and its perceived desirability in the classic 'market'. Take a new-old-stock (i.e. unused original) front wing for a car. Have a new front wing for a Datsun Cherry and you might get a few quid for it if you find someone who is into preserving such delights, whereas another NOS front wing, from a similarly aged Mk2 Escort may command a lot more, simply because these cars are popular with the sport of rallying, so demand is high. Likewise, a front wing for an A40 Farina, itself a rare car with limited following, may be worth £200+ if you can find one, whereas a front wing for a similarly aged Mini may be a lot cheaper, as there are still people with A40s looking for such panels yet unlike with the Mini's they're no longer readily available.

A lot about finding spares for your car can rely on you networking with fellow owners and getting to know less obvious ways of finding rare parts, without relying on specialist parts suppliers unless absolutely necessary. Many people consider that buying a trashed example of your car is a worthwhile proposition, as it can be an excellent way of providing yourself with a lifetime of spares at very reasonable cost, although to do this you need the room for a second immobile hulk, which could be a problem for some.

If you own something really obscure, then scouring the internet is a very worthwhile pastime as unusual parts can often be found using this method, plus your weekends should really be dedicated to attending as many auto jumbles and swapmeets as possible, where old parts are there aplenty and useful leads and contacts can be made with knowledgeable stallholders and attendees alike. You can place Free adverts now on Old Classic Car for parts, so if you need parts, or have some surplus items for sale, why not list them here for free?! Just visit the online classic car auto jumble at Old Classic Car today. 

13. Are fibreglass (GRP) repair panels ok to use?

Spare bodywork panels for older cars can be very difficult to find. Whereas panel re-manufacture is alive and well with the more common classics that are to be seen dotted on the show field, similar panel work for less obvious classics can be very tricky to locate, and has meant that many potential restoration projects have ended up in the great scrap yard in the sky due to lack of panels to use. Some owners clubs embark on low volume re-manufacture of key panels, such as front wings for instance, but they invariably get snapped up pretty quickly, assuming that the high cost of producing these panels can be realistically covered. Hence many people turn to fibreglass replacements, of which there is much better supply, although it has to be said that the quality of GRP panels can vary widely.

Other possible problems include the effect that using these panels will have on the car as a whole. Most enthusiasts put great importance to a car being as original as possible, and the use of GRP panels where there would originally have been steel is frowned on by many, however it can mean that cars otherwise destined for the tip can live to see another day. However they must only be used in place of non-structural panel work, and they are often less strong than their steel counterparts, plus you can't replace structural body members with GRP copies.

14.How do I buy from an auction?

Buying at auction can net you a classic for bargain money, however there are plenty of risks involved. The principal risk is that you cannot often take the car for a test drive, so you are reliant on the condition statement given by the vendor being accurate, plus should the car turn out to be a lemon, you often only have an hour after the auction end to take the car back and make a case for a refund. So you really have to think on your feet, and if you're no expert in the particular car that you want, it will pay dividends to drag along someone who really knows the make and model in depth. Before the auction itself, there is usually a period of time for viewing, where you can check over the auction lots and make your assessment. Some allow you to run the engine, whereas others might not.

If you plan to bid on something, remember to register first as you'll need a bidding number to wave at the auctioneer should you be successful. Set yourself a maximum for what you are willing to spend on the car, and try to stick to it - things rattle on quite quickly during the auction itself and it's easy to get carried away. Assuming you win, you'll need to pay up there and then, and make swift arrangements for moving the car away. Leave the car at the auction for too long and you'll end up paying daily storage costs, which will eat into the saving you'll probably have made by buying at auction. 

15. Can I fit a larger engine and more modern brakes to my classic?

Many owners of classic cars do just this, without going to the extremes that customisers go to with their machines. Fitting more modern running gear can transform the behaviour of a classic, especially if a lot of journeys are made on fast A roads and motorways. But while they can make the experience more modern in feel, many argue that part of the charm of an old car is the way it drives, the whine of the gearbox and tap of the tappets. Some of the more popular classics, such as Moggy Minors, have received all manner of engine modifications over the years and, with so many original examples still around, is an accepted course of action in most classic clubs. Many would say that rarer cars shouldn't be chopped about and fitted with modern running gear, and I'm inclined to agree especially where the modifications required have been so significant that they couldn't be reversed.

A Minor with a Fiat twin cam won't offend many people, but say an MG TD fitted with a more modern drive train will no doubt be frowned upon, even though everyone has the right to do whatever they want with their own car. Of course while the latter is true, problems may start when you want to try offloading your classic. A while back it was popular to replace the 3.0 V8 engine of the Triumph Stag with the reputedly more reliable 3.5 lump out of a Rover, and for a while they were a sensible buy. Nowadays most of the problems associated with the V8 Triumph engine have been ironed out, and many people are returning their re-engined cars back to Triumph power.

BMC cars, such as Austins and Morrises have always been fair game for tuning or engine upgrade, simply because there are so many variations of the A and B series engines available. For instance the A series, in longitudinal format, was used in the Austin A30, A35, A40, and Morris Minor to name a few, whereas the transverse installation was used in all variants of the 1100 and Mini, the latter of which include the Cooper and Cooper S models, for which a vast market of aftermarket tuning accessories were also created, many of which can be fitted to humbler machines. A30s, with the 803cc A series, are often upgraded to the revvy 948cc version from the A35 (and the remote change gearbox), the torquey 1098cc such as in the later A40s, or even the 1275cc as found in Coopers and some Marinas.

There are also some companies that specialise in just such work, only a month or so ago I was looking over a Mk2 Jag that had been subject to some serious modernising, with its running gear being sourced from a supercharged XJR which must be quite an entertaining & stylish drive. Another consideration to bear in mind before you being to shoehorn that surplus V12 Ferrari engine into your Cortina is that of insurance. Some specialist classic insurers won't touch a modified car, and even those that do will usually require an engineers report to confirm that the modifications have been carried out safely and to a suitable standard. I had to go through this routine with the last roadworthy Spitty I had, which someone had begun to convert to 2500S saloon power, sat on a Mk2 GT6 (rotoflex) chassis and beefed up all round.

16. What type of events are open to classic car enthusiasts & their cars?

Throughout the year there are a huge number of events tailored for fans of old cars everywhere, the most common being the car show, where entrants are invited to book in their classic car, truck or motorcycle and display them to the general public. Many take place at country estates such as those at Tatton Park, Chatsworth Hall, Shugborough Hall and Hatfield House to name a few. Of course if sitting around all day discussing parked classics isn't your thing, then most owners clubs organise 'fun' days out, which usually involves a convoy of members' vehicles cruising around the leafy byways of Britain, calling in at local places of interest along the way. And if this is a little sedatory for you, there is always the motorsport side of things to consider - whether its cruising around on a treasure hunt, taking part in autotests, nigh time navigation rallies or sprints, a good time is bound to be had, although the more serious the event gets, the greater the preparation for both car and driver will be required, usually with a matching hike in the costs involved. If sitting around all day and admiring glistening cars is how you wish to spend your Sunday afternoons, then the rarefied arena of the Concours competition may be right up your street.

17. How safe is a classic car?

Not as safe as its modern equivalent is the norm when it comes to safety. Most classics were penned on the drawing board long before much thought was given to what happens to humans should the unfortunate happen and you find yourself driving into something solid. Airbags, crumple zones, anti lock brakes and all the rest were but a distant dream, as were things such as seatbelts until 30 or so years ago.

Volvo kicked off much of the quest for safer cars way back in the 1950s when they launched their 120 Amazon range in 1956, fitted as it was with padded sunvisors, front seatbelts (and mountings for rear belts), padded dashboard top and less dangerous switchgear, coupled with a tank like structure. Therefore driving a classic does require more foreword planning, and braking distances need to be adjusted accordingly, as any modern MPV or whatever will easily out brake a drum braked classic from decades ago, indeed many very early cars didn't even have four wheel braking, which could prove entertaining nowadays.

Generally however, older cars (so long as they are structurally solid) are made more substantially than more modern vehicles, so whereas moderns are designed to fold up and absorb more energy, meaning that the passengers don't have to, older, more solid, cars are likely to have more localised (and repairable) damage although the passengers may have a rougher time of things.

There is an argument that modern cars are so safe now, and the chances of you walking away from a shunt are that much greater, that many push the limits of the car more in daily driving, knowing that its less likely to wipe them out completely should things get exciting. It could be this reasoning that means insurance policies for old motors are (assuming you're over 25) that much more affordable - drivers of preserved cars, where there is less built in safety, are more likely to drive carefully, knowing that any contretemps with a large tree will no doubt do them some serious damage. 

18. I've been offered an incomplete & rusty Cortina for £750, is it a good buy for a restoration project?

A lot depends on what Cortina you are talking about, but for most cases probably not. If its a Mk3 or later then unless its a particularly rare model (the owners club could advise) then either get the price down a lot or go elsewhere, you'd be much better off finding a better example, unless you are feeling particularly masochistic. If its a Mk2 then the situation is a little less clear. Some models of Mk2 Cortina are quite sought-after in Cortina circles, the Cortina-Lotus and 1600E spring to mind, although as with any incomplete car it is essential that you cost up and check the availability of the parts that are currently missing. Mk1 Cortinas, with the 'ban-the-bomb' rear lights, have more of a following still, and to my eyes are the only Cortinas that have had much style to them (all IMO of course!), with base fleet models, 1500GT and racy Lotus examples probably being the favourites, with 2 dr examples usually being preferable to 4 drs.

19. How secure are classic cars?

The locks were a lot more primitive when most classics were new, and it is highly recommended to apply some form of extra vehicle security to your revered automobile, whether its investing in a simple steering wheel lock, or having a fully alarmed motor house (garage) built specially. I've written more about security considerations in the following classic car article.

20. I only plan to use my car occasionally, so how can I keep the costs down?

Well in terms of fixed costs, the 2 main ones are road tax and insurance. For most classics there are specialist insurance companies around who will offer a selection of policies based on your expected annual mileage, usually starting from around 1,500 miles pa and increasing in 1,500 increments right up to 6,000+ which for an occasional use classic, can work out very well. Some policies, on older classics, can be unlimited mileage - the A40 Somerset that I ran last year cost all of £54 fully comprehensively insured, with unlimited mileage. And, if you are fortunate enough to own a pre-1973 build car, then you'll qualify for 12 months tax at zero rate! And if you still have to pay for road tax, many owners opt to tax the car for just 6 months of the year, with the 6 over late autumn through to late spring leaving the car in the garage, not forgetting that when a car is out of use for a period of time, that a SORN (Statutory Off Road Notification) declaration must be made to DVLA.

21. Are modern garages capable of working on my old car?

Many of the time served mechanics who worked on your old car are probably heading into, or are already in, retirement, with many of the mechanics to be found nowadays completely unprepared for when you turn up with your Austin 7, complaining of a misfire. Modern cars are just mobile computers now, with some oily bits buried deep down below the surface, and I've come across people who are bewildered at the thought of balancing up a pair of twin SUs when they discover that they can't just plug the car into a diagnostic checker.

Your best chance of finding a garage that you can trust to work on your oldie is probably through word-of-mouth recommendation, possibly through contact with an appropriate owners club. There are still garages dotted around that have time-served mechanics who remember many old cars, and how they work. Not so long ago people hung onto their autos for much longer than is the case now, so it was not unusual for garages during the 1960s to be asked to work on elderly Vauxhalls and Fords dating back to the 1940s and before, so there is a chance that older mechanics may still recall some of the finer points of adjusting valve clearances on your 103E Pop, or replacing the kingpins on your Morris.

Of course the best bet is to try and do as much work as you can yourself, then you really get to know the workings of your classic, which will hold you in good stead should you get a breakdown at any time. Invest in copies of the original workshop manual and handbooks if you can (have a look at my memorabilia for sale page!), and check the internet as there are many discussion forums for all types of cars, where other owners are usually only too pleased to help out in some way if they can.